Buying Fabric and Things

You’ve got your pattern, and have some kind of idea on colours, you’re all set to go fabric shopping now!

Different fabrics launder and wear differently, so depending on how much you enjoy doing laundry will depend on what you buy.  If I can’t machine wash and dry it, I’m not interested.  I prefer to save my hand washing for hand knits and luxrious lingerie.

As far as colours and patterning goes, I tend to leave skirts and pants plain, and put the interest in the blouses for the most part.  I do like the occasional statement skirt with a plain sweater or blouse, however.  If you’re consciously working in items from your current wardrobe, think about what will work best.  For me, most of my stuff is plain coloured, so I have a bit of room to play.

This statement blouse is purely a night out top, so I think sticking with a black skirt (pencil or a-line), or black pants will work best.

I really like my purple tops, but the 3/4 sleeves just don’t work.  I think I’ll need to make them short sleeve, with maybe a little cuff.  These will work with a either a plain skirt or pants, and the lighter top would also work with something floral.

Having a list like this will help you decide what direction to go when looking for fabric.

I tend to buy cotton, or poly/cotton blends for shirts, and microcrepe or a gaberdine for pants/skirts.  Materials that have a small percentage of elastine or lycra are good if the clothes are for ‘action’, like dancing or chasing around kids as you can make them fitted, and the seams won’t stress or wear as quickly.

Something I always do, is buy at least 20% more fabric than the pattern calls for, especially if it has cotton content.  Why?  Because the first thing you should do when you bring fabric home is wash it, and some materials (especially natural content materials) will shrink.  Buying a little extra ensures that you don’t end up short (which is especially bad when trying to make pants).  Also, if you know that you need to make adjustments (such as increasing the bust, or lengthening the legs), make sure you take that into account when the sales assistant asks you how much she can cut off for you.

Remember that the little things like buttons can make your garment pop, and don’t be scared to get a little daring.  With buttons, buy what you need +2.  If they’re flat or ‘plain’ shirt buttons, stitch them on the lower side seam as you find with commercial shirts.  If your buttons are a little fancier, pop them in a little bag, and attatch them to the coathanger for that shirt, or have a ‘button box’ for your bedside drawer or the like so that you know exactly where they are.

Now you’re all set!

If you’ve been following this series, I’d love to see what you make!

I will be following up this series with the details of my own wardrobe makeover.

Working It In

Just because you’re creating a new look (or revamping an old one) for yourself, there’s no need to toss everything you currently own.  You may have a piece or two that you just love and can’t part with, or that are designer and you don’t want to feel like you’ve wasted the money.  Is there already a colour theme in your wardrobe?  Or is one of the reasons you want to revamp because there is no unity?

My current wardrobe has no unity, or colour theme.  I have pieces that I won’t want to lose, so I will want to create a wardrobe that will allow me to incorporate some of what I already have.

And don’t forget your accessories!  Beloved shoes, or handbag?  A scarf that has wonderful memories attached?  Don’t feel like you have to abandon ANYTHING that you love because you want to revamp/do up your wardrobe.  Even if the pieces are anachronistic, there are ways to work things in that makes them playful, or purposefully ironic.

Working the vintage wardrobe isn’t always about being 100% authentic.  Fashion and subculture movements like Steampunk and Dieselpunk show us that we can take elements from the fashion of the day, twist it a little and make it rock.  The important thing is that you enjoy what you’re wearing.

Best thing to do is really look at your current wardrobe, and select the things that you already own that you want to incorporate into your ‘new look’.  Hang them together and take a photo of them to see what you have, and see if there are any commonalities between them.  Colour.  Shape. Potential for alteration to suit.

Looking at my own wardrobe I have 4 or 5 dresses, half a dozen tops/blouses, 2 skirts, a coat and a waistcoat.  Most of which require some kind of alteration to either fit properly, or be appropriate, a couple of which don’t currently fit but will work into the wardrobe at a future time but most of which will be phased out of the wardrobe as I start shedding some weight.  There’s no great colour theme, and if not for the fact my skirts are black, there’s very little coordination going on.  And while black is a great equaliser, I really don’t want to have my wardrobe full of it.

As far as accessories go, most of my shoes are black, with a couple of specials as seen here.  And while I have one great vintage handbag, I do enjoy making my own, and while they may not be vintage or even vintage inspired, I do love them all the same and will make them work.  I have one Trilby hat that works in winter, and I have plans for some cute hats for summer later this year.

So now with the assessment out of the way, now comes the what to add first?

I seem to have quite a few tops/blouses, so what I need are pants and skirts, but a couple of new blouses would be nice too, but I don’t want to make any jackets or dresses just yet.

Next week:- Patterns & Planning

It’s hard to move forward without some kind of starting point… I need to change some things, but too much at once will get overwhelming for me.

Things that are going to be the easiest to start with.

Hair – I’m going in a whole new direction with my hair.  A few months ago I was seriously considering staying a la naturale and growing it obscenely long.  But I realised, that’s really not who I am.  Going grey doesn’t bother me at all, but I like the option of being a different colour when the mood strikes.  And really long is nice if one has no intention of styling in vintage hair do’s… but I do.  So I’m going for a cut that is going to be very easy to style and to take care of.  I will take before and after shots when the time comes (appointment is later this month).  It will be versatile for up and down, casual and dressy, styled or a la naturale (I have curly hair).

Clothes – I do not love my current wardrobe.  Not just because of the size, but I have compromised the styles I enjoy wearing for whatever fits.  To combat this I’ve compiled a list of patterns that I want to buy across all of the main brands.  As they come on sale, I’m buying them slowly.  I have a stash of fabric, some of which is earmarked for special vintage patterns that I already have, once I’ve lost some of the weight I have put on over the last decade. So it will mean more fabric shopping (which I love, so that’s ok), but it also means a lot of alterations on patterns, which I don’t mind at all, because the final fit is always much better.  My biggest hurdle is sewing clothes for my current size, which I have to get over if I want to have clothes to wear now that I love.

Exercise – While heading into summer is the wrong season to start thinking about walking and getting outside (for fear of melting into a puddle), I have new joggers and some great walking routes in my area, so I’m going to get out there and pound the pavement.

So those are the three things that I can do now.

I have no specific plans or timelines.  I have a starting point and an ‘ideal’ goal.  I should have more of a plan, though.  Not just so I know in which direction to head, but it will also help me keep things a little more organised.

Yesterday I had taken time to style my hair a little before going out, and I thought it was worth preserving a little of the body of the ‘do.  So before bed last night, I pinned just my fringe area (or bangs) into some pincurls and pulled the rest of my hair back, to keep it neat.  It worked great as my fringe went right back into it’s nice full semi-pompadour.  It’s a small thing, but it made me smile this morning.

I want to start exercising again, too.  I have an exercise bike at my disposal, as well as a Wii Fit (so much fun!), not to mention a pretty view if I head down to the bay to go for a nice level walk.

I think the key here for me is small steps, and not expecting too much from myself all at once.  I know if I start feeling overwhelmed I’ll go into ‘hiding’ again because it’s just ‘easier’.  And yes, it takes no effort at all, but it’s not easier on my mental and spiritual health.

I want so very much to share my journey.

I want so very much to get back the style that I let slide away.

I want, hopefully, to inspire at least one person to take back their self and inject their life with vivacity.

Ten years ago I was a vintage styled, singing, dancing and superbly coiffed young woman.  To no fault of anyone but myself, I have become a tracksuit wearing, non-dancing semi-slob

I decided that this has to change.  I’m not happy in my own skin, I hate the clothes (or a great part thereof) in my wardrobe, I miss my “hair time”, my vintage/inspired clothes, I miss dancing and most of all, I miss a part of me that has fallen into semi-oblivion.

I have the commitment of my family to support me.  I am investing in some new ‘classic’ and yet vintage styled sewing patterns so that I can love what I see in my wardrobe every day.  I also have bought some velcro rollers, curl clips and a setting net so that my coiff can be silky smooth and bouncy.

So that’s the external stuff, right?  What about the mentality, the drive, the ambition to make *this* time the time that it works.  Well, at almost 34 I have to make the change now if it’s ever going to happen long term, right?

I plan on including lot of different things along the way.  From hair and makeup, to garments I sew for myself, bargain shopping finds, recipes and exercise triumphs!

I have no time frame, as it’s more important for this to be a lasting change.  But I do have other goals.

• Eradicate ’sweats’ and the like from my wardrobe.  I deserve to look fantastic every day.
• Look after my skin better, from within as well as externally.
• Maintain a vintage hair cut & style it every day.  NO MORE PONYTAILS!
• Do something that makes me happy every single day.

Join me on my path from frumpy to fabulous!