Buying Fabric and Things

You’ve got your pattern, and have some kind of idea on colours, you’re all set to go fabric shopping now!

Different fabrics launder and wear differently, so depending on how much you enjoy doing laundry will depend on what you buy.  If I can’t machine wash and dry it, I’m not interested.  I prefer to save my hand washing for hand knits and luxrious lingerie.

As far as colours and patterning goes, I tend to leave skirts and pants plain, and put the interest in the blouses for the most part.  I do like the occasional statement skirt with a plain sweater or blouse, however.  If you’re consciously working in items from your current wardrobe, think about what will work best.  For me, most of my stuff is plain coloured, so I have a bit of room to play.

This statement blouse is purely a night out top, so I think sticking with a black skirt (pencil or a-line), or black pants will work best.

I really like my purple tops, but the 3/4 sleeves just don’t work.  I think I’ll need to make them short sleeve, with maybe a little cuff.  These will work with a either a plain skirt or pants, and the lighter top would also work with something floral.

Having a list like this will help you decide what direction to go when looking for fabric.

I tend to buy cotton, or poly/cotton blends for shirts, and microcrepe or a gaberdine for pants/skirts.  Materials that have a small percentage of elastine or lycra are good if the clothes are for ‘action’, like dancing or chasing around kids as you can make them fitted, and the seams won’t stress or wear as quickly.

Something I always do, is buy at least 20% more fabric than the pattern calls for, especially if it has cotton content.  Why?  Because the first thing you should do when you bring fabric home is wash it, and some materials (especially natural content materials) will shrink.  Buying a little extra ensures that you don’t end up short (which is especially bad when trying to make pants).  Also, if you know that you need to make adjustments (such as increasing the bust, or lengthening the legs), make sure you take that into account when the sales assistant asks you how much she can cut off for you.

Remember that the little things like buttons can make your garment pop, and don’t be scared to get a little daring.  With buttons, buy what you need +2.  If they’re flat or ‘plain’ shirt buttons, stitch them on the lower side seam as you find with commercial shirts.  If your buttons are a little fancier, pop them in a little bag, and attatch them to the coathanger for that shirt, or have a ‘button box’ for your bedside drawer or the like so that you know exactly where they are.

Now you’re all set!

If you’ve been following this series, I’d love to see what you make!

I will be following up this series with the details of my own wardrobe makeover.

Patterns & Planning

Now you have an idea of where you want to get to, and what you can re-use from your own wardrobe, now we need to asses what our day to day entails, and what wardrobe needs will arise.  Mine is running around after an almost 4 year old boy, housework, errands, occasional social outings and fleeting moments of glamour… well, near-almost-kinda glamour.

• So things that are easy to launder – I don’t mind ironing, but hand washing is reserved for hand knits and dry-cleaning is not on the cards
• Clothes that are comfortable to wear but versatile enough to go out in
• Pieces that are coordinated to maximise wardrobe with fewer pieces

Whilst I enjoy wearing dresses,  seperates are more practical for me at the moment.

So now I have an idea of the types of clothing I want to include, I need to think about which period I want to use as a starting point. I enjoy a vast array of vintage fashion, from Regency era through to the early 1960’s, particularly the mid 1920’s to mid 1950’s.  The easiest to adapt for me to start with will be the 1940’s.  Fashion in the Wartime 1940’s was all about slim, tailored lines, using minimal fabric as to maximise rations.  Women were still feminine while frugal, style was not compromised.

A good place to start, if you don’t have patterns to begin with, is a “sportswear” category pattern.  These can range from really casual, to entire business wardrobes.  At the moment, Simplicity have two 1940’s inspired patterns.  I bought this Simplicity pattern.  It’s a ‘retro’ 1940’s repro pattern.  It’s a classic 1940’s line, and come in a full spectrum of sizes.  It is also easy to adjust the bust due to princess seams in the jacket and the yoke on the blouse.  The reason sportswear category patterns can be great, is they encompass key pieces, in this case, blouse, pant, skirt and jacket.  Creating coordinates becomes simple. To expand the wardrobe, add other blouse/shirt patterns, a different style  jacket, add a pencil skirt or two and you’re good to go!

If you’re new to sewing, the simpler the pattern the better.  Each pattern will have a rating of Very Easy, Easy, Intermediate or Advanced, so it would be to your own advantage to choose patterns that you will be comfortable making.

But what size pattern do you buy?  Except for a few advanced technique patterns, the Big 4 tend to have pattern ranges, some reproduction companies may also do single size patterns.  So you’ll need to take measurements. So many other people have great guides as to how, my favourite is at Sew, Mama, Sew.  Once you have your measurements, you want to get the size that is closest to your own measurements.  Unless you’re a perfect match, you’ll probably have to fiddle around with the pattern a little.  Also, if you’re larger than a B cup you’ll want to use your high bust measurement to determine which is the correct ‘bust’ size pattern to use.  This means, however, that you will need to do some adjustments for the bust.  A great resource book for fitting is the Palmer/Pletsch book “Fit For Real People“.  Taking the time to fit a pattern properly will make a huge difference to the end garment.  It’s time worth spending.  Especially if you plan to make more than one of the same pattern.

Next week:- Buying Fabric & Things

Working It In

Just because you’re creating a new look (or revamping an old one) for yourself, there’s no need to toss everything you currently own.  You may have a piece or two that you just love and can’t part with, or that are designer and you don’t want to feel like you’ve wasted the money.  Is there already a colour theme in your wardrobe?  Or is one of the reasons you want to revamp because there is no unity?

My current wardrobe has no unity, or colour theme.  I have pieces that I won’t want to lose, so I will want to create a wardrobe that will allow me to incorporate some of what I already have.

And don’t forget your accessories!  Beloved shoes, or handbag?  A scarf that has wonderful memories attached?  Don’t feel like you have to abandon ANYTHING that you love because you want to revamp/do up your wardrobe.  Even if the pieces are anachronistic, there are ways to work things in that makes them playful, or purposefully ironic.

Working the vintage wardrobe isn’t always about being 100% authentic.  Fashion and subculture movements like Steampunk and Dieselpunk show us that we can take elements from the fashion of the day, twist it a little and make it rock.  The important thing is that you enjoy what you’re wearing.

Best thing to do is really look at your current wardrobe, and select the things that you already own that you want to incorporate into your ‘new look’.  Hang them together and take a photo of them to see what you have, and see if there are any commonalities between them.  Colour.  Shape. Potential for alteration to suit.

Looking at my own wardrobe I have 4 or 5 dresses, half a dozen tops/blouses, 2 skirts, a coat and a waistcoat.  Most of which require some kind of alteration to either fit properly, or be appropriate, a couple of which don’t currently fit but will work into the wardrobe at a future time but most of which will be phased out of the wardrobe as I start shedding some weight.  There’s no great colour theme, and if not for the fact my skirts are black, there’s very little coordination going on.  And while black is a great equaliser, I really don’t want to have my wardrobe full of it.

As far as accessories go, most of my shoes are black, with a couple of specials as seen here.  And while I have one great vintage handbag, I do enjoy making my own, and while they may not be vintage or even vintage inspired, I do love them all the same and will make them work.  I have one Trilby hat that works in winter, and I have plans for some cute hats for summer later this year.

So now with the assessment out of the way, now comes the what to add first?

I seem to have quite a few tops/blouses, so what I need are pants and skirts, but a couple of new blouses would be nice too, but I don’t want to make any jackets or dresses just yet.

Next week:- Patterns & Planning

Well I got my hair cut, but no colour. I’m just not decided enough to actually do it. My hairdresser advises blonde too, so that’s another choice to the mix.
So here is the cut.  I went for the shorter “Baby” length, but with slightly longer layers on top, at the sides and a smidge extra for the front of my “fringe”.  It’s just long enough to go over my rollers at the base.

This particular hairstyle was (what I call) a soft set.  This is when I blowdry my hair around a small round brush, and then set in dry pincurls.  As I have quite curly hair, to acheive this amount of curl, a soft set is really effective.  I generally only pull out a wet set when I’m going out dancing, or need more definitive waves.

The other thing in the photo is my recently finished Citron Shawl.  I love wearing it!  It’s a perfect layer when you don’t need something as heavy as a cardigan.

Today was the first Rock’n'Roll & Alternative Markets over at the Jet Sports Club in Tempe.  There was music, a jumping castle for the kiddies and LOTS of things to buy!

I was too busy, unfortunately, looking at all the gorgeous things that I really wanted to bring home to take photos.  There was everything from Vintage wear, hair stylists and vinyl records to Gothabilly jewellery and gorgeous handmade corsets, and the Western Sydney Rollers represented too (Go Roller Derby!).

I came away with a small vintage brooch and a cute and quirky haircomb made by one of the Derby girls.  I could easily have spent a LOT of money (I still have my eye on a custom waist cincher),  and a lot more time looking more deeply into each of the stalls.  But I only had a limited amount of time due to other engagements.

From all accounts they will be on again, and you can bet I’ll be back there when they are!

(hint for next time, either get there early to park, or be prepared to walk a few blocks)

Inspiration

Before you can look at patterns, material or accessories, you need to know what styles appeal to you.

Do you like the clean lines of the 1920’s?  Marcel waves and cloches, arched brows and bow lips?

Maybe you prefer a longer line, bias cuts and butterfly sleeves of the 1930’s?

Or are you a Swing Gal?  Do the 1940’s flip your wig?

Maybe you’re mad over Crinolines & Catseye glasses?  Do you want to Rock Around the 1950’s?

I find that having a rummage through old magazines, and online pictures a great way to find inspiration to create the outfit (or in this case outfits/wardrobe) before actually investing any cash into the process.  What inspires you?  How do you see yourself dressed?

Do you have to stick with one ‘era’?  Of course not!  But it helps to get an idea of things you do and don’t like.  These are possibly my four favourites, but I also like some of the fashions from earlier periods, such as Regency, Edwardian and some Victorian.  They’re just not as ‘every day wearable’.

Next week:- Working It In (or There’s No Need To Trash Your Entire Existing Wardrobe)

For years now, I’ve been wanting a 100% vintage inspired wardrobe.  For one reason or another, I’ve not jumped in and just done it.  But now as we’re heading out of winter, slowly towards spring, I have been thinking about what I’ll need coming into warmer months.

Since having my son, I’ve kept the contents of my wardrobe to a complete minimum in terms of different items, as I wasn’t sure how looking after a child and dressing vintage was going to work.  Obviously there are people out there that do it, and I have never been a 24/7 vintage style wearer, so transitioning my wardrobe now is proving to be a challenge.

One of my biggest issues at the moment is my size, I’ve put on a fair bit of weight since I was wearing vintage regularly, so adapting the style for my larger size is something that I am ‘fighting’ with.  I’m also hesitant to invest a lot of money and time into the clothing right now, as the plan is to lose the weight, so I don’t want to have made an entire wardrobe, only to then drop a few dress sizes and have to start over.  So the plan is to start making pieces slowly so that I have nice/cute things to wear now, but so that I don’t invest too much money and time and not have anything for later.

The types of things that I like and want to add to the wardrobe, will be things that are extremely wearable, and adjustable as I change shape.  A-line skirts, Drindle skirts, button down shirts, wide legged pants and dresses.  I’m very lucky that these things are not only easy to make, but the patterns are readily available through modern pattern companies as well as reproduction pattern companies.

These are some examples of currently available patterns through “The Big 4″ that I like the lines of.

Then you have companies that sell reproduction vintage patterns that are true to design, but redrafted for today’s figure.  I haven’t tried any of these yet, but hope to in the next year.

I was going to do the whole process in a single post, but I got this far and realised that it is way too large a subject and will require parts.  So each week, starting later this week, amongst other posts, I will concentrate on a different part of the wardrobe, planning stages, patterns and construction as they arise.

Today’s post is all about my hands… or at least things that are going to adorn that area.

In the last week I have been very fortunate to receive some gifts that will allow me to make my hands pretty.

My friend Violet Le Beaux most graciously made me a set of custom false nails.  She is very talented, and I can’t wait until I get to wear them!  They’re black, silver, red and white so they will pretty much go with anything.  I just love them!  Now to get myself some good glue.

I also finally got my Mother’s Day present from my husband & son.  It’s been on layby for a few months, but I’ve been looking for it for years.  I have always found it hard to find a style of watch (that isn’t antique) that suits me.  It had to be oval, silver and a fairly low profile.  Thank goodness I found this watch, as I was starting to get a bit over using my phone as a watch all the time.  What I love is that it will look good with any ‘era’ of clothing too.  Dressed up, or dressed down.

And then there’s something I’m making for myself.  Pretty fingerless mitts.  I’ve been meaning to make myself a new pair for this year, and as I’m making them in gorgeous Knitabulous Fifty Fifty, they’ll be suitable to wear well into Spring!  The pattern is “Veyla” by Ysolda Teague.  She’s a very talented designer,and I just LOVE her stuff!  I’m just about 1/2 way through the first lace cuff, and it’s a delightful knit so far.

I love aprons!

Really, I do. I have a few, too. All of which I wear, and all of which I’ve made. Half, bib and pinafores, they all have a use and some are better than others for certain jobs.Pina

Pinafore Apron

Pinafore aprons (or pinnies) are good for just about everything except hostessing. I love pinnies for doing housework, baking and crafting in. Like a pretty “protect-all” for your clothes.  As these tend to be ‘workhorse’ aprons, I prefer to re-purpose my husband’s old business shirts after the collar has gone, than buy pretty new fabric.  I do, however use

some pretty bias to edge the apron and pockets.

Bib Apron

Bib aprons are also good for the above, but have the added bonus of being able to be a little more ‘dressy’. Great for serving up food at a dinner party.

Half Apron

Half aprons are not fantasic clothes protectors, but they are great as extra pockets, as hand wipes, and good for light housework, they can also be really pretty.  I made a great little joey pouch for holding pegs when putting up/getting down laundry.

Unfortunately, like hats, gloves and a number of other things, aprons are now more of a ‘kitsch’ item, than something we don on a daily basis.  But I love them, and will continue to make them and wear them, and soon will do a tutorial on how to turn a business shirt into a pinny.

I’m not a garment knitter, I have friends who are garment knitters though.

But lately, I’ve been thinking about what and why I’m knitting.  I enjoy the process of knitting, which is why I always have multiple projects on the go, but with this comes missing out on frequent finished items, and the elation of wearing something that I’ve knit myself.

Currently, I have a wrap, a shawl, socks and a scarf on the needles.  All are “small” projects, each have their own ease and challenges, but none offer truly mindless “TV” knitting.

So yes, I’ve cast on a new project… AND it’s a cardigan!  Yes!  An actual GARMENT!  It’s not my first, I have knit one before (although it wasn’t a complete long term success), but it’s my first since that one.  It’s a top down, seamless, raglan, stocking stitch cardigan.  Blissful, mindless knitting, even if I’m not using a pattern.

For me, this also means that there’ll be moments where I’ll be more enthused to knit something that has more of a challenge.  Lo and behold, I have just the small projects that can satisfy those moments!

At the end of the cardigan, I should have also finished my scarf and shawl.

But I’m really knitting this cardigan to give myself a hug.  When I was younger I had a turtleneck pullover that was oversized, warm and perfect for pulling on when I needed extra warmth and comfort.  I haven’t had another piece of clothing that has been the same for me since I was about 17.  So I wanted a warm, comfy, slightly oversized (but still a little shaped) cardigan that I could pull around me and wrap myself in at those times where I needed a bit of extra warmth and comfort.  A nice wooly, comfy hug for myself.

And let’s face it… it’s not like I didn’t already have the yarn to do it… Haha!!